League of Permanent Cosmetic Providers
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© Line theory™ is the study of the implanted area using many different techniques of motion and needle clusters to insert the pigment under the skin. Each motion and needle cluster used to generate a permanent makeup procedure / tattoo will have a specific personality, this is not to be confused with washes, pigment and ink usages, though is can be utilized to help in an overall effect. Some of the techniques of motion include obovoids, cross hatching, straight aways, pointillism, blending, shading, whip shading and stacking ect. A part of knowing your craft is understanding and using motion, married with the correct needle cluster to achieve the most desirable procedural outcome. This would also include insertion pressure coupled with your machine speed. There are many things to consider when performing a successful permanent makeup procedure.
It is the industry standard that smaller rounds that are tight will give a symmetrical, crisper, tighter, sharper line. While the shaders grouped loosely will allow the procedure area to achieve blending that is much more cohesive and smoother in appearance. One must use the right tool for the right job!
For example, if you want to achieve a subtle lash enhancement or single eyebrow hair stroke that will simulate real hair we use a 1 prong needle. This is the needle that will give you the finest line and most realistic result.
For a thin lipline we use a 3 prong needle, a medium lipline a 5 round and for a thicker lipline we use a 8 round. To fill in the entire lip we can use a 4 flat or 6 flat to shade in the lip vermilion.
Keep in mind, this knowledge comes through time, and yes, lots of practice. Through practice and tattooing, you will get a general idea of how these work together. I liken it to explaining to someone how to drive a car, that has never been driven before. You can describe it, they can anticipate it, but it is a journey they must take, but in tattooing, experience will be the best teacher. Some people are just better drivers than others and the same goes for tattooing. Some are proficient and some are not. But like driving you must pay attention to the details and road instructions to prevent and be proactive about guarding for problems (shall we say accidents?). Tattooing is absolute, therefore trial and error is not the best teacher (but a teacher none the less) as it is painful. Correct teaching is the answer (apprenticeships) continuing education/classes, which will escort us through the process, by the gentle guidance of one who has sojourned before.
Whether it be rounds that are shaders or tights, magnums or flats, know your subject matter!
Your goal as the tattooist is to KNOW, UTILIZE, AND MASTER the different techniques of motion married to the right needle grouping to achieve that THE SPECIAL EFFECT, or DESIRED OUTCOME in the skin for your procedure.
By: Pamela Abshear CCPC, CPDA and
Susan Church CCPC, CPDA
